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Peru and Cusco in Quarantine – Day 38

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Wednesday, April 22, 2020

The biggest news today is that there won’t be any real news on the quarantine. I think most of Peru was expecting an announcement today, but around 12:40 this afternoon it was announced that there would be no Presidential briefing and press conference. The President is currently meeting with the Council of Ministers this afternoon.

I think this caught most people by surprise. As for the reason, any ideas are pure speculation right now. I can’t hep but wonder if this morning’s request by the Peruvian Medical College to extend the quarantine is playing a role. (more below)

I guess about all we can say right now is “Stay tuned…”

Daily COVID Update from the Ministry of Health

Click on the graphic to see a larger size

The Ministry of Health announced that the total number of cases in Peru has risen to 19,250. After 4 days of rising, there was a significant decrease in the percentage of positive test reported despite a large increase in the number of tests results.

To date, there are 2,434 hospitalized patients with Covid-19, of whom 396 are in the ICU with mechanical ventilation. 7,027 people have completed their period of home isolation or were discharged from a health facility. Unfortunately the number of COVID-related deaths has risen to 530.

Lima continues to be the region with the highest number of infected with Covid-19 to date with 13,224 followed by teh regions of Callao (1,416), Lambayeque (864), Loreto (653), Piura (514), Ancash (365), La Libertad (318), Arequipa (276), Ica (213), Junín (207), Tumbes (205), Ucayali (172), Cusco (147), Huánuco (114) , San Martín (107), Cajamarca (78), Madre de Dios (71), Amazonas (60), Moquegua (48), Pasco (46), Apurímac (46), Tacna (44), Ayacucho (38), Huancavelica (19) and Puno (15).

Minsa now has a great resource for seeing more detail in each of Peru’s regions here:

Sala Situacional COVID-19 Peru

Land Travel After the Quarantine

The Ministry of Transport and Communications (MTC) is preparing protocols for land travel when the current restrictions end.

MTC met representatives from the Association of Owners of Interprovincial Buses of Peru, the Confederation of Land Transporters of Peru (Cotrap) and the guilds of Northern Transporters to discuss the procedures that will be required of anyone who transports people. Future protocols will implemented throughout the system of transport and will involve drivers, employees, and passengers.

Social distancing will continue to be required by passengers from arrival at the terminal until they reach their final destination. It ill involve the ticket purchasing process, boarding, and riding on buses, trains, etc.

Peruvian Medical College Recommends Quarantine Extension

In a statement this morning, the Peruvian Medical College asked the government to extend the current quarantine two more weeks due to the increase in COVID cases and related deaths over the past week.

They warned that the removal of the quarantine “in full increase of cases” of new coronavirus in the country “can bring with it a great social cost.”

There was no further information provided on the College’s website.

Six Cusco Police Officers Test Positive

Rapid tests for COVID-19 were given to 200 police officers in Cusco and six tested positive. All six are currently asymptomatic, isolated, and being monitored by the Regional Health Directorate (Diresa).

Aguas Calientes: Ghost Town Video

If you’ve been to Machu Picchu, then it’s almost certain that you at last passed through the little town of Aguas Calientes. While gathering news this afternoon, I came upon this little video showing what it looks like now that everything is closed. The accompanying article is in Spanish, but the video is still eerily quiet. Anyone who’s been to AC will recognize the location as the busiest street in town.

You can see it here:

Cuarentena convierte a la cosmopolita Aguas Calientes en un pueblo fantasma.

Leaving You With a Video of Better Days…

I shot this video three years along the Amazon in Iquitos and Tamshiyacu and up in the Andes around Caraz. It’s got nothing to do with the day’s news, but I thought you might like to see something different.



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Videos Guaranteed to Brighten Your Day Under Quarantine

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If you don’t smile when you watch these, then you are far too stressed!

Photo by cottonbro from Pexels


Thanks to my friend, Scott Wagner, for sending me off on this search for YouTube smiles by sharing the first video!

These are my favorites (so far), but there are lots more out there to keep you entertained. Stay home, stay well, and enjoy!



Hope you enjoyed these! Please feel free to share links to your favorites below.

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Quarantine and Curfew Extended 13 Days in Peru

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Peruvian President Martin Vizcarra just gave his daily address to the nation in which he announced a 13-day extension of the mandatory national quarantine and curfew which includes the current border closure which should take it through April 12.

He started off by noting that there are now 580 cases of COVID-19 across the country and saying that 2,568 people were arrested yesterday alone — most were in Lima and La Libertad.

He also says that the government is evaluating restricting the current curfew hours in Loreto (Iquitos) and northern regions of the country. [Note: my Spanish is not great, but the President sounds pretty ticked off at how things are going in Loreto (Iquitos).]

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Surviving the Peru Quarantine — My Latin Music Playlist!

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I’ve been working on a post about the situation here in Cusco for over a week now and can’t seem to make myself finish it. So I’ll post something a little different to get me started posting again: My Latin Music Playlist (with YouTube live versions of most to help you enjoy)!

For most of my adult life, I’ve enjoyed “world” music and in the last 20 years or so I’ve focused on Latin music.

Here are some songs that I listen to a lot here. Latin music is certainly not the only music I enjoy. My tastes are very eclectic and range from AC/DC (cranked up loud, of course) to 80’s pop to classic rock to classical/soundtrack tunes, but I love to listen these tunes and they are all played almost daily on my iPhone!

Please let me know what you think with a comment at the end. I especially would love to hear any new suggestions for songs I might like! With all the challenges the world is facing, I thought something light and positive would help us all get through each day a little better.

Note: These are not in any order (except the last one). Just enjoy each as they come!

Enanitos Verdes – Tu Carcel (Live in Mexico)

Despite being recorded 16 years ago, this song by a fantastic Argentinian band is still very, very popular. I hear it all the time while walking in the mall, coming from people’s cars, from speakers that so many stores place at their entrance to get customers’ attention, etc.

Banda Calypso – Ainda Te Amo

I first heard this Brazilian Band about 2 am on Christmas morning in a little hut on the edge of Belen in Iquitos around 2006. If you don’t know, Christmas celebrations in Peru start at midnight and go until morning (or later!). I was invited to a friend’s house where we ate a great middle of the night turkey dinner with wine before turning on the TV and dancing to their pirate DVD of Banda Calypso’s live performances.

Even years later, this song still gives me chills and it’s hard to sit still. I remember a bunch of little kids gathered outside to watch the gringo dance the night away in a place where gringos generally don’t go!

Laura Pausini – Quiero Decirte Que Te Amo

I don’t know where I first heard Laura Pausini, but I immediately fell in love with her voice. If you haven’t heard her before, you really should listen. She has a ton of beautiful songs, but this one is my favorite right now.

David Bisbal – Amar es Lo Que Quiero

I started listening to David Bisbal many, many years ago. He has several song I really like, but this one is definitely my favorite.

Maná – Corazon Espinado

If you grow up in the Southwest US and you don’t know this Maná, then you must be living in a cave. They were the first Mexican band that showed me there was more south of the Rio Grande than mariachis!

It’s hard to pick a favorite song of theirs because there are so many, but this duet with the legendary Carlos Santana tops them all.

Yahir – Te Amaré

This is still my favorite “sing along” tune in the shower. The studio version is better, but this live performance is still pretty good. His recording of “La Locura” is another of my all-time favorites.

Dom Omar – Danza Kuduro

I looked all over to find a really good live version of this song.

Turn up the music LOUD. Don’t know the words? Who cares! I dare you to sit still while listening to this!

Nicky Jam and Enrique Iglesias – El Perdon

I couldn’t find a live version of this with both singers, but the studio version is awesome. Four years ago you couldn’t go anywhere in Peru without hearing this song. I remember it was immensely popular in Iquitos — especially the barrios where the tourists don’t go!

Banda Calypso – Perdeu O Trono

One more Banda Calypso song. It’s a shame they split up. (The lead singer and guitarist were married, but have since divorced.) Though they are still immensely popular in Brazil and the rest of the continent, songs like this always made me think they could have been even bigger outside South America.

Ricardo Arjona – Porque es Tan Cruel el Amor

This another one that I couldn’t find a decent live version, but the original sounds just fine. I used to listen to this when i was in Mexico a long time ago so it brings back a lot of bittersweet memories.

Mocedades – Eres Tú

I saved the best for last. This song is perhaps the best example of Latin music that transcends language and culture. You don’t have to know the words to sing along. Is there another that is so well known and so well loved all over the world?

Can you believe this was first recorded 47 years ago? This live version still touches me in a way that I can’t put into words. Watch the video and you’ll see that I’m not alone.


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Winter Solstice Sunrise at Machu Picchu

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Something made me wake up and take a peak at my watch in the middle of a deep, sound sleep on the morning of June 21 in my hostal bed in Aguas Calientes.

4:41 am.

I had traveled to AC the day before with the intention of going up to Machu Picchu to witness the sunrise hitting the north window on the El Torreón — also called the Temple of the Sun though no one really knows what it was called by the Incas — supposedly resulting a spectacular splash of light aligning perfectly with a carved huaca (sacred stone) in the middle.

I had decided several months before to make the trip and had bought my ticket in early April after spending time talking with my friend and adventure inspiration, Paolo Greer. And now that day was here.

4:41 am.

Even for an early riser like me, that’s really early to crawl out of bed and head up a mountain in the dark and cold to see a place I’ve already seen close to a dozen times in the past 4 months.

But when I remembered that this was a once a year experience that isn’t even possible some years because of clouds, I got up and started to get dressed. A quick rinse off followed by brushing my teeth and throwing on my clothes and I was out the hostal door.

It was still pitch black outside, though I could see stars above. After lots of steady clouds and rain the day before, that was a good sign that maybe there would really be a sunrise view this morning.

The line to catch the bus up to Machu Picchu stretched far off in the distance so I decided to make the walk to the base of the mountain and then climb up the steep trail of unending rocky steps to get there more quickly instead of being stuck in line waiting for space on a bus. If I’m going to do it, I thought, I’m going to commit completely to making sure I’m there in time.

It’s about a mile down to the bridge crossing the Rio Urubamba where security checks everyone’s tickets and identification before allowing you to continue. (Interestingly, the man checking the tickets actually recognized me from a visit 3 months ago when we had a long conversation about MP.)

Once through the checkpoint, the long climb began. It’s hard enough, but in the dark with only a poor flashlight and the knowledge that seriously poisonous snakes (i.e., the imfamous Bushmaster viper) were often found in the area, the stress was amplified.

It took about 45 minutes to reach the entrance to MP. Even 8000′ in altitude is very low for me, but climbing nearly straight up for around 1500′ will leave just about anyone exhausted.

About 6:40 am I reached the upper part of MP where I could look down and see how many people were already there. Since the sunrise would occur over the mountain in about half and hour, I really expected to see the wall directly above The Tempe of the Sun to be packed with people on this very special day, but surprising there were only about a dozen people waiting so I quickly made my way through the hundreds waiting above to get their “postcard” sunrise photos and headed into Machu Picchu itself.

Waiting for the sunrise as the first light hits la montaña Machu Picchu above.

Quickly I grabbed a spot on the wall and joined everyone else in waiting for the sun to crest over the distant mountains and shine into the Temple with what we hoped would be a brilliance quite similar to the famous “Map Room” scene in Raiders of the Lost Ark.

The anticipation grew as the sunrise slowly illuminated the higher mountains all around us. Finally, with a chorus of “oohs” and “aahs” coming from the group which now still numbered only around 30, our patience was rewarded with a burst of sun in our eyes over the mountain quickly followed by a trapezoidal stream of light lined up perfectly with the huaca stone inside.

Over 500 years ago Inca engineers built this special place high on a jungle mountain and aligned everything so perfectly including the natural rock below so that the sunrise sunlight streamed through the window so that it was perfectly bisected by the carved stone.

For a people whose very lives depended on the seasons and the resources provided by natural force at just the right times in order for crops to be planted and harvested to feed their empire, this was likely the most significant moment of the year for the Incas.

It’s easy to imagine the Inca emperor surrounded by the highest of Inca priests witnessing this exact same celestial event in this exact spot centuries ago.

To be honest, it was impossible to not feel an indescribable connection with the past in that moment as this small group of strangers from all over the world shared an experience that has fascinated and influenced countless cultures through history, but rarely as much as it did in this magical place called Machu Picchu.

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