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Peru and Cusco in Quarantine – Day 12

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Friday, March 27, 2020

Today is a new day with everyone knowing we are now looking at (at least) a 28-day quarantine/curfew period lasting until April 12. (You can read more about the announcement here: Quarantine and Curfew Extended 13 Days in Peru.)

I’ll be updating this continually during the day as new and relevant information becomes available. Please check back regularly and be sure to click the “refresh/reload” button on your browser so updates are shown.

I was going to do an end-of-day update each evening, but since there is likely information that will be released during the day that is important to be shared quickly, I’m going to update this post during the day. For that reason, again I emphasize that you need to click the “refresh/reload” button on your browser or updates will not likely show up.

Daily Presidential Address to the Nation

A lot of the President’s comments today regard the government’s economic plans including expanding payments to Peruvians need financial assistance.

If you heard about the huge order of tests received by Spain that turned out to be defective, the Health Ministry today reported that they are purchasing from a different provider.

The Head of the National Police said that La Libertad/Trujillo leads the nation in violations of the quarantine and curfew with 7446 arrests since March 18!

Coronavirus Cases Increases to 635

55 new cases were reported by the Health Ministry today out of 846 tests performed. The good news is that only 6.5% of the tests came back positive compared the 8.5% the day before.

About 20% fewer tests were performed, though no reason was given for this. Hopefully this indicates that fewer people complained of symptoms requiring testing.

So far confirmed cases have been reported in the Lima (494), followed by the regions of Loreto (23), Piura (20), Callao (17), Arequipa (15), Lambayeque (13), Junin (12), Cusco (10), La Libertad (9), Ancash (6), Tumbes (5), Huanuco (4), Ica (3), Madre de Dios (1), San Martin (1), Cajamarca (1), and Pasco (1).

Sadly, two more deaths were reported bringing the nationwide total to 11. One was a 56-year-old man in Trujillo. The other was a 65-year-old man in Lima with a history of brain cancer.

Afternoon Update from the US Embassy

2:30 pm – The U.S. Embassy is organizing buses for tomorrow, March 28, to bring U.S. citizens from Arequipa to Lima for their onward flight back to the United States.

Late last night, the Peruvian government approved repatriation flights through April 1, making it easier for the U.S. Embassy and airlines to place Americans on flights. The U.S. Embassy is identifying vulnerable U.S. citizens for priority flights, minimizing no-shows, and planning for operations outside Lima and Cusco.

Peruvian President Martín Vizcarra announced yesterday that quarantine measures, border closures, and a nightly curfew will continue until April 12. The U.S. Embassy recommends U.S. citizens in Peru adhere to all quarantine measures.

More than 1,200 Americans have made it home from Peru. Our team continues to work around the clock. Principal Deputy Assistant Secretary of State for Western Hemispheres Affairs Julie Chung arrived today in Peru to support these efforts.

Morning Announcement from the US Embassy

10:00 am – “Yesterday, the U.S. Embassy coordinated with the Peruvian Navy to reach stranded U.S. citizens by boat in the Amazon region so they could return home. Today, two flights will leave Lima, and one will depart from Cusco.

‘If you were contacted by the U.S. Embassy last night, please proceed to the indicated rally point. If some of your family members were not included on the manifest, we will place them on a standby list at the rally point. We are making every effort to fly families together.

‘Some charter flights have had to take off without filling every available seat, a huge frustration for all of us. We know that moving from place to place has become complex, given the extraordinary public health measures now in place. If are manifested on a flight, we urge you to do everything you can to follow the instructions and to arrive on time.

‘Unfortunately, we are unable to add people on short notice due to transportation security requirements.

Our team continues to work around the clock to assist U.S. Citizens in Peru and to make more repatriation flights available.”

Peruvian Navy Brings 60 US Citizens Out of Iquitos

Yesterday the US Embassy in Lima reported that 35 US citizens were brought from outlying areas in the jungle to Iquitos so they could join 60 others in returning home.

Peru’s Executive Branch Granted Special Powers

9:25 am – This morning, Congress granted the Executive Branch special powers to legislate on issues related to health, fiscal and tax policy, and citizen security for 45 days.

Coming Changes in the Military’s Responsbilities

8:45 am – Defense Minister Walter Martos announced today that the military will begin charging those who resist and assault (including verbal assaults) soldiers carrying out their duties under the State of Emergency. He is also meeting with government attorneys today and requesting that they be allowed to detain those charged.

He also said that the military presence in northern regions will be increased and he will recommend stricter quarantine and curfew measures in the northern provinces (including Iquitos) where lax compliance is resulting in greater transmission of COVID-19.

An formal announcement is expected on these restrictions for the north of Peru later today.

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Quarantine and Curfew Extended 13 Days in Peru

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Peruvian President Martin Vizcarra just gave his daily address to the nation in which he announced a 13-day extension of the mandatory national quarantine and curfew which includes the current border closure which should take it through April 12.

He started off by noting that there are now 580 cases of COVID-19 across the country and saying that 2,568 people were arrested yesterday alone — most were in Lima and La Libertad.

He also says that the government is evaluating restricting the current curfew hours in Loreto (Iquitos) and northern regions of the country. [Note: my Spanish is not great, but the President sounds pretty ticked off at how things are going in Loreto (Iquitos).]

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Surviving the Peru Quarantine — My Latin Music Playlist!

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I’ve been working on a post about the situation here in Cusco for over a week now and can’t seem to make myself finish it. So I’ll post something a little different to get me started posting again: My Latin Music Playlist (with YouTube live versions of most to help you enjoy)!

For most of my adult life, I’ve enjoyed “world” music and in the last 20 years or so I’ve focused on Latin music.

Here are some songs that I listen to a lot here. Latin music is certainly not the only music I enjoy. My tastes are very eclectic and range from AC/DC (cranked up loud, of course) to 80’s pop to classic rock to classical/soundtrack tunes, but I love to listen these tunes and they are all played almost daily on my iPhone!

Please let me know what you think with a comment at the end. I especially would love to hear any new suggestions for songs I might like! With all the challenges the world is facing, I thought something light and positive would help us all get through each day a little better.

Note: These are not in any order (except the last one). Just enjoy each as they come!

Enanitos Verdes – Tu Carcel (Live in Mexico)

Despite being recorded 16 years ago, this song by a fantastic Argentinian band is still very, very popular. I hear it all the time while walking in the mall, coming from people’s cars, from speakers that so many stores place at their entrance to get customers’ attention, etc.

Banda Calypso – Ainda Te Amo

I first heard this Brazilian Band about 2 am on Christmas morning in a little hut on the edge of Belen in Iquitos around 2006. If you don’t know, Christmas celebrations in Peru start at midnight and go until morning (or later!). I was invited to a friend’s house where we ate a great middle of the night turkey dinner with wine before turning on the TV and dancing to their pirate DVD of Banda Calypso’s live performances.

Even years later, this song still gives me chills and it’s hard to sit still. I remember a bunch of little kids gathered outside to watch the gringo dance the night away in a place where gringos generally don’t go!

Laura Pausini – Quiero Decirte Que Te Amo

I don’t know where I first heard Laura Pausini, but I immediately fell in love with her voice. If you haven’t heard her before, you really should listen. She has a ton of beautiful songs, but this one is my favorite right now.

David Bisbal – Amar es Lo Que Quiero

I started listening to David Bisbal many, many years ago. He has several song I really like, but this one is definitely my favorite.

Maná – Corazon Espinado

If you grow up in the Southwest US and you don’t know this Maná, then you must be living in a cave. They were the first Mexican band that showed me there was more south of the Rio Grande than mariachis!

It’s hard to pick a favorite song of theirs because there are so many, but this duet with the legendary Carlos Santana tops them all.

Yahir – Te Amaré

This is still my favorite “sing along” tune in the shower. The studio version is better, but this live performance is still pretty good. His recording of “La Locura” is another of my all-time favorites.

Dom Omar – Danza Kuduro

I looked all over to find a really good live version of this song.

Turn up the music LOUD. Don’t know the words? Who cares! I dare you to sit still while listening to this!

Nicky Jam and Enrique Iglesias – El Perdon

I couldn’t find a live version of this with both singers, but the studio version is awesome. Four years ago you couldn’t go anywhere in Peru without hearing this song. I remember it was immensely popular in Iquitos — especially the barrios where the tourists don’t go!

Banda Calypso – Perdeu O Trono

One more Banda Calypso song. It’s a shame they split up. (The lead singer and guitarist were married, but have since divorced.) Though they are still immensely popular in Brazil and the rest of the continent, songs like this always made me think they could have been even bigger outside South America.

Ricardo Arjona – Porque es Tan Cruel el Amor

This another one that I couldn’t find a decent live version, but the original sounds just fine. I used to listen to this when i was in Mexico a long time ago so it brings back a lot of bittersweet memories.

Mocedades – Eres Tú

I saved the best for last. This song is perhaps the best example of Latin music that transcends language and culture. You don’t have to know the words to sing along. Is there another that is so well known and so well loved all over the world?

Can you believe this was first recorded 47 years ago? This live version still touches me in a way that I can’t put into words. Watch the video and you’ll see that I’m not alone.


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Winter Solstice Sunrise at Machu Picchu

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Something made me wake up and take a peak at my watch in the middle of a deep, sound sleep on the morning of June 21 in my hostal bed in Aguas Calientes.

4:41 am.

I had traveled to AC the day before with the intention of going up to Machu Picchu to witness the sunrise hitting the north window on the El Torreón — also called the Temple of the Sun though no one really knows what it was called by the Incas — supposedly resulting a spectacular splash of light aligning perfectly with a carved huaca (sacred stone) in the middle.

I had decided several months before to make the trip and had bought my ticket in early April after spending time talking with my friend and adventure inspiration, Paolo Greer. And now that day was here.

4:41 am.

Even for an early riser like me, that’s really early to crawl out of bed and head up a mountain in the dark and cold to see a place I’ve already seen close to a dozen times in the past 4 months.

But when I remembered that this was a once a year experience that isn’t even possible some years because of clouds, I got up and started to get dressed. A quick rinse off followed by brushing my teeth and throwing on my clothes and I was out the hostal door.

It was still pitch black outside, though I could see stars above. After lots of steady clouds and rain the day before, that was a good sign that maybe there would really be a sunrise view this morning.

The line to catch the bus up to Machu Picchu stretched far off in the distance so I decided to make the walk to the base of the mountain and then climb up the steep trail of unending rocky steps to get there more quickly instead of being stuck in line waiting for space on a bus. If I’m going to do it, I thought, I’m going to commit completely to making sure I’m there in time.

It’s about a mile down to the bridge crossing the Rio Urubamba where security checks everyone’s tickets and identification before allowing you to continue. (Interestingly, the man checking the tickets actually recognized me from a visit 3 months ago when we had a long conversation about MP.)

Once through the checkpoint, the long climb began. It’s hard enough, but in the dark with only a poor flashlight and the knowledge that seriously poisonous snakes (i.e., the imfamous Bushmaster viper) were often found in the area, the stress was amplified.

It took about 45 minutes to reach the entrance to MP. Even 8000′ in altitude is very low for me, but climbing nearly straight up for around 1500′ will leave just about anyone exhausted.

About 6:40 am I reached the upper part of MP where I could look down and see how many people were already there. Since the sunrise would occur over the mountain in about half and hour, I really expected to see the wall directly above The Tempe of the Sun to be packed with people on this very special day, but surprising there were only about a dozen people waiting so I quickly made my way through the hundreds waiting above to get their “postcard” sunrise photos and headed into Machu Picchu itself.

Waiting for the sunrise as the first light hits la montaña Machu Picchu above.

Quickly I grabbed a spot on the wall and joined everyone else in waiting for the sun to crest over the distant mountains and shine into the Temple with what we hoped would be a brilliance quite similar to the famous “Map Room” scene in Raiders of the Lost Ark.

The anticipation grew as the sunrise slowly illuminated the higher mountains all around us. Finally, with a chorus of “oohs” and “aahs” coming from the group which now still numbered only around 30, our patience was rewarded with a burst of sun in our eyes over the mountain quickly followed by a trapezoidal stream of light lined up perfectly with the huaca stone inside.

Over 500 years ago Inca engineers built this special place high on a jungle mountain and aligned everything so perfectly including the natural rock below so that the sunrise sunlight streamed through the window so that it was perfectly bisected by the carved stone.

For a people whose very lives depended on the seasons and the resources provided by natural force at just the right times in order for crops to be planted and harvested to feed their empire, this was likely the most significant moment of the year for the Incas.

It’s easy to imagine the Inca emperor surrounded by the highest of Inca priests witnessing this exact same celestial event in this exact spot centuries ago.

To be honest, it was impossible to not feel an indescribable connection with the past in that moment as this small group of strangers from all over the world shared an experience that has fascinated and influenced countless cultures through history, but rarely as much as it did in this magical place called Machu Picchu.

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