Category Archives: Unique Places

Scout Hike Above Tambomachay

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Tomorrow I’m going up above the ruins of Tambomachay on one of my favorite routes, but since I guess I’m leading this hike and the first part of the route is closed off because of COVID closures, I thought it might be a good idea to make sure I knew the best route that went around the ruins and the nearest village which is closed off to outsiders for fear of introducing infection.

Though I knew the basic direction, I didn’t know if there were actual paths to cut across to the main trail leading up high into the mountains or if we’d have to “bushwhack.” I do that all the time, but thought it might be better to actually have a plan.

I’m not going to go into details — those will come tomorrow — except to say that I did find an easy way starting from the village of Huayllarccocha which actually is more beautiful with more views than the main trail I’ve always used before.

I got up to about about 13,150′ today and was pleasantly surprised that, despite the steady climb and months of quarantine, even at that altitude I wasn’t really breathing hard. (Slow and steady pacing makes all the difference!)

Here are a few photos I took with my cell phone. Of course, tomorrow I’m taking my real camera and hope to get some even better pics. (It’s hard not to get great pics up there!)

  • The first part of the hike is along a rarely used dirt road that climbs into the mountains providing breathtaking views of the valley behind.
  • Here the road ended and the trail up began with the first climb aiming for the mountain in the upper middle of this photo.
  • This is the view of the valley back towards Tambomachay and Puka Pukara (which can be seen far in the distance). The normal trail is visible on the left side.
  • Herds of sheep, llamas, alpacas, and more sheep (!) were all over.
  • I didn’t go much higher than this, though there was still more climbing ahead to the top of this photo.
  • The views coming back down were just as beautiful as going up.
  • I was surprised at how much harvesting had recently been completely despite it being 3 weeks into winter.
  • I’m looking forward to taking better pastoral photos with a real camera tomorrow!

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First Real Exploring in Months!

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[Note: Be sure to click on the photos to see larger versions. I think I got some really good ones today!)

My original plan today was to go up into the mountains way above Tambomachay, but circumstances made it really tough to get up there.

First, the village where you normally go if you don’t want to pay to pass through the ruins themselves was closed. As I am a resident, that usually doesn’t matter, but the site itself is also closed down. That left going up to the north and walking along the mountainside following barely visible sheep and shepherd trails.

I normally don’t spend much time taking pics of llamas as I’ve seen more than a few, but I got to play shepherd and help a family gather these three back into the herd.
I was impressed just by finding this carved rock lying alone on the mountainside, but I had no idea what lay ahead for the day!

As you can see from the pic below, walking along the mountainside is a challenge in many ways. First, the side of the mountain is steep. Second, it’s often very difficult to see the next step ahead of you.

This wasn’t my first time hiking in a place like this and it was kind of cool when I began to realize that I have learned to “read” the grass so I can tell pretty well where the trail is actually going and where my next step should go. Sometimes the trail was only 4-5 inches wide which made for a pretty careful walk.

Of course, I’m not bragging. My ability to read the grass is probably the equivalent of any 4 or 5 year old who’s been raised in the mountains! Still, it’s a new skill for me that is quite useful at 12,000′.

Can you see the trail in the grass? I promise — it’s there.

After an hour or more making my way along the mountain, I was stopped by a young shepherd who told me to be careful because his dogs could bite. That certainly got my attention and I turned back around.

Needless to say, I was a bit disappointed, but decided that maybe there was another place to explore that I hadn’t been yet.

This will give you a bit of perspective on the grandeur of the Andes Mountaints. Puka Pukara is a fortress-like site that you can just see at the bottom of the photo.

Once I made my way back down to the Pisac Highway, I decided to follow the stream from Tambomachay down towards the ruins of Inkilltambo. I knew where the stream went, but had no idea what was between the highway and the ruins much closer to Cusco. It was a place I’d wanted to go for months, but just hadn’t gone because I didn’t think there was much there.

I was sure wrong!

I turned off the highway on what was an old road that soon turned into nothing but a trail making it’s way gradually towards the stream. It was an easy path, but not particularly scenic. Once I got to the stream, I had the option of jumping across and possibly getting wet or making my way across the two thin eucalyptus trunks that stretched from bank to bank.

Though a bit precarious, it wasn’t nearly as bad as it looks.

On my way down, I noticed a pile of large rocks that looked really out of place as there were no rock outcropping in the immediate area. That told me that there was something nearby and pretty quickly I noticed what it was.

Both sides of the stream were lined with rock walls. Where I crossed, the walls were only a couple of feet high, but later on they approached many times that!

In a few places, the walls had obviously been reconstructed. Other places the walls had apparently been washed away, but for most of the next few kilometers, the original walls still stood intact after about 500 years!

There was even one spot where a set of stone steps made their way down to the stream! (Sadly, the bright sun shining through the trees made it impossible to get a decent photo today.)

Along the way were a number of waterfalls and some of the most beautiful scenes I’ve seen in the region. Despite it being the dry season, there was plenty of water flowing today as springs far up the mountain supply this stream with a constant flow. (That was obviously a major reason why the Incas built so much along it’s banks.)

I passed a few local people who didn’t seem too impressed with my presence — especially considering the nearby villages are still closed off to outsiders — but everyone was friendly and took the time to say “Buenas tardes” as I made my way down the canyon.

A little congestion along the trail!

The views were nothing short of breathtaking in places. I found what appeared to be a ceremonial site that had just about disappeared, but it location overlooking the valley and the remains of a wall and a door indicate that it was likely a place of some significance.

You can just barely make out the bottom of the door and wall which protecting this spot that jutted out and overlooked not only the stream below but the valley that spread out to the east.

Farther on down the trail I was surprised to find what appeared to be some stone steps going down a slight incline. I’ll admit, I didn’t think much of it since I hadn’t seen anything that resembled any kind of path of Inca origin except one probably wall off to the side far upstream.

As I made my way to the bottom, I looked to the left to see if I could spot what sounded like a small waterfall and was stunned to see the most amazing wall I have ever seen outside of the major Inca sites. I’m still angry at myself for not taking more photos because the high quality of construction indicated that it was obviously a place of great significance.

This is one place where I will return very soon to explore the immediate area and document the wall in much greater detail. It’s certainly not a random wall and there likely is more to find nearby.

The rest of the way down the valley saw some beautiful scenery. I finally made my way to the spot I knew I would eventually reach where I would meet up with the Camino del Inca al Antisuyo. This was one of the four main roads that extended out of Cusco to the far reaches of the empire in a road system that is estimated to have been around 25,000 miles!

This is one of my favorite spots and likely was a favorite of the Incas, too. The old road crosses the stream over a wooden bridge as it makes it’s way on to the village of Yuncaypata just a little ways up the mountain.

I followed the Inca road back towards Cusco along a path I’ve walked many times over the past two years. I always have to remind myself that I am walking along the same road that rulers walked (or were carried!) in one of the greatest empires that ever existed in the Americas.

I’m sure there’s still a lot up there to explore and find. I’ll certainly be back soon!

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Places I Miss: The Rio Urubamba Below Machu Picchu

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[This is the second in a series talking a little about my favorite places that I miss, but can’t visit because of the quarantine we have been under since mid-March. The series is not done in any order of preference. I’m just having a little fun remembering some of the wonderful places I’ve visited in Peru and reminiscing with some of my favorite photos. This is the kind of stuff I normally am posting! Be sure to click on the individual photos to see larger versions.]

[Last Week: Places I Miss: Lago Sandoval]

I’ve never met a tourist who hasn’t come to Cusco without visiting Machu Picchu (except those who were stopped by the current State of Emergency).

I’ve been there around 25-30 times — including seven trips in the first 2½ months of this year. I really don’t know exactly anymore. I was there 5 days before the current quarantine was announced and was planning a return the following week before the country was shut down.

Yet unlike probably every visitor to Aguas Calientes (the small town below Machu Picchu also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo), I have traveled there many times without going to Machu Picchu.

The Rio Urubamba flows on three sides of Machu Picchu some 1500′ below.

There is, in fact, an incredible amount of fascinating places in the area that very, very few know about and even fewer visit and experience.

The best part of the region is that there are still likely some places waiting to be discovered hidden in the surrounding jungle.

Anyone who visits Machu Picchu makes a mistake in not spending another day exploring the rail line from Aguas Calientes to the hidroelectrica where hikers coming in the “back way” as I like to call it start their 10 km final trek.

Going as early in the morning as possible and walking slowly while listening and watching is the secret to really enjoying this fantastic stretch.


Depending on the day of the week, you might pass one or two workers walking to Aguas Calientes. It’s doubtful you’ll see any trains until around 8:30 in the morning when PeruRail comes chugging up from it’s stopping place at the hidroelectrica. (Be careful to stay on the trail and off the train tracks as people have been killed.)

Other than that, you’ll likely be walking along hearing only the sounds of the jungle and the Rio Urubamba — sometimes roaring down tight canyons and sometimes flowing gently below South America’s greatest site hidden on the mountaintop above.

Look everywhere. One time I shot some video of the river only to discover when I got home that I had unknowingly filmed a river otter! (Yes, they do live along the Rio Urubamba here.)

Butterflies are everywhere. Occasional hummingbirds might flutter past. Though rare, you’ll likely hear the distinctive call of the Oropendula bird which makes it’s nest hanging from tree branches like a long sack.

While your gaze will be drawn to the majestic mountains surrounding you, don’t forget to look down, too.


This is one of my happiest places. Often I’ll take off on what appears to be an opening in the jungle that might lead me up into the mountains north of Machu Picchu where there are still places to be explored.

Waterfalls are common as water flows fast down from the high mountaintops above. Some are small and some are large. It is those large ones that intrigue me the most because they make me wonder if long ago they also provided water for Inca sites still buried deep in the unexplored jungle.

One beautiful place to explore is the Jardines de Mandor. Mandor is the place where Hiram Bingham first started up the mountainside to get his first glimpse of the ruins that would one day become one of the world’s most famous places. A family has turned it into a beautiful garden with a well-kept trail heading up into the mountains through the jungle towards a pair of beautiful waterfalls.

As far as I can find, there are still places which have not been explored — or explored very little. There are some flat places very high in the mountains that make me wonder if they still might hold buildings that haven’t been seen in centuries. Like anyone who comes to this area, I’ve heard rumors…

By far the most interesting place is what is known as the River Intihuatana because no one knows what it was originally called.

This incredible spot is one of the most important sites in perhaps all of Peru, yet despite being only meters from the path that hundreds of hikers take when hiking in the “back way”, almosy no one knows about it.

As far as I can tell, only one archaeologist has ever done any real study and that was apparently on only one visit. The work of Steven Gullberg (2009) was my inspiration along with Marks Adams’ description of the site in his magnificent book, Turn Right at Machu Picchu.

The central piece of the site is the massive Intihuatana stone and granite base carved out of a single piece of granite on the hillside. It is one of three remaining Intihuatana stones and the only one not placed on a high place in a major ruin site. (The others are at Machu Picchu and Pisac.)

The River Intihuatana lost its gnomon (the sundial-like post extension on the top), but is still a spectacular ceremonial stone created for still unknown purposes.


The site has a lot more of great interest than the Intihuatana stone, however. Besides the large, sloping platform behind it, there is also a pair of east-west aligned basins next to a large fountain over a small cave.

  • These basins are aligned east-west.
  • The nearly 6-meter fountain had baffles designed to regulate water flow evenly.


Two small buildings are nearby along with a long wall. On one trip, I discovered another long way running almost perpendicular to the other one. I’m not sure if there’s a relationship between the two, but it’s something I will be exploring more in the future.

To me, easily the most interesting feature of the complex is a small curved wall with a door and a niche for placing religious idols that lies about 20m away.

It literally took me four trips before I was able to find this spot even though I knew exactly where it was. It is so deeply hidden in the jungle that I finally found it by walking along a very precarious cliff-side ledge to get to it. (Even the woman who owns the property didn’t know about it when I showed her a photo.)


There are lots of other stuff hidden in the jungle in the vicinity of the rail line. There are Inca steps climbing long-forgotten wall and even the remains of an Inca bridge that I’ve never heard anyone mention before. (A local resident passing by pointed it out to me. They know everything!)

Of course, if there was an Inca bridge, there must have been an Inca road on the other side. Sounds like a place to do some more exploring. (Directly above this spot is the San Miguel mountain where there is another almost unknown Inca site. San Miguel played a major role in the sacred landscape of Machu Picchu.)

  • Centuries ago people walked up these Inca “flying steps.”
  • If you look close, you can see the stones in the middle of the river that once was part of an Inca bridge.


When the quarantine ends and I can make the trip back to Machu Picchu — hopefully in 3 weeks — there are some very important things I want to explore. I’ve already uncovered something apparently unknown and very significant about Machu Picchu, but there are some other things that need to be checked including a nearly perfect alignment between three and possibly four major sites in the region that has not been mentioned before.

Anyone want to come along with me to do a little exploring in the jungle and see what’s waiting to be found?


Here are a couple of previous posts about this topic:

There’s More in Aguas Calientes Than Machu Picchu (June 27, 2019)

Searching for the Intihuatana (May 19, 2019)


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The Best Cusco and Machu Picchu Reading List!

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Can’t get to Cusco and Machu Picchu for awhile? The best thing you can do is start studying and learning right now. The more you know and understand, the more everything you see will mean to you.

I’ve first came to Cusco in 2005, traveled to Peru over 30 times before becoming a permanent resident in 2018, and have explored the surrounding region extensively.

I’ve visited Machu Picchu about 25 times in the past year and have probably been more than anyone except those who actually work there, yet I on every single visit I still discover new things. Much of this is a direct result of studying the work of others long before I get there.

Before I go any further, I think it necessary to say that if you generally get your knowledge about a a place from YouTube videos, then you probably should just skip everything that follows. YouTube is dominated by con artists who feed their viewers a steady diet of pseudoscience based on absolutely nothing just so they can monetize their videos or, even worse, promote outrageously expensive “tours” where they share the same babble.

It always seems more interesting to hear stories about aliens and unknown ancient civilizations spread by people who are too lazy to do real research because there are plenty of people who will pay money to hear just about anything.

There have been countless scientists, archaeologists, engineers, and other educated people who have spent significant portions of their lives doing actual research. If you’re not willing to take the time to learn from these people, then the rest of this post is not for you.

[Note: The links will take you to Amazon.com, but these are not affiliate links for me. I don’t get any commission. I included them simply to make it easier for you to make a purchase from Amazon should you choose.]

Exploring Cusco by Peter Frost (6th Revised edition)

This is considered the basic “Bible” by those who live in Cusco. Peter’s research is exhaustive and the amount of detail is unmatched. His overviews of the city and the region will get you just about anywhere you need to go with a good bit of information along the way. I especially like his descriptions of places in the central historical district of Cusco.

Some things are constantly changing in Cusco, but the fact remains that some things never change. Frost does a great job of capturing and explaining both.

This is the the book for visiting Cusco. Just get it.

The Machu Picchu Guidebook: A Self Guided Tour by Ruth M. Wright and Dr. Alfredo Valencia Zegarra (Revised Edition)

Read this book before you go and carry it with you when you visit Machu Picchu. It’s easily the best book available with actual facts based on real research written by authors who have extensive experience and research knowledge. There isn’t a better guidebook available on Machu Picchu and I recommend this wholeheartedly.

Wright and Zegarra break up the ruins into specific sections which helps to digest each specific part of Machu Picchu. I was a little disappointed that there was not more about some of the places (e.g., the Sun Gate, or Into Punku and the Inca Bridge) that are not part of the normal tour agenda, but which are fascinating places to see.

Turn Right at Machu Picchu: Rediscovering the Lost City One Step at a Time by Mark Adams

Of all the books on the list, this is by far my favorite. It’s unbelievably entertaining and provides more factual detail about Machu Picchu and Hiram Bingham than you’ll probably think you want to know, but you’ll find yourself so engrossed in it that you won’t be able to put it down.

I have met and know some of the characters introduced in the book and I can guarantee that they are every bit as colorful as described without being cartoon characters. They are real, interesting people with a passion for Peru and the Andes that is difficult to describe. Yet Mark Adams does a pretty good job of doing just that!

I have the audio version (which I strongly recommend) of the book as well as the Kindle version. Every time I go to Machu Picchu I listen to sections of it again on the train ride to refresh myself on certain things I plan to see and explore on each trip.

I can’t recommend this book enough not only for what you’ll learn, but for sheer entertainment.

Machu Picchu: Exploring an Ancient Sacred Center by Johan Reinhard

For over a century people have wondered what was the actual purpose of Machu Picchu. Was it a fortress? Was it holy religious center? The truth is no one knows for sure, but Reinhard’s detailed studies built upon the foundations of those before him and his own work are now accepted as the most likely explanation for the site’s purpose.

Despite it’s thickness, the book is a fairly quick read. The attention to scholarly detail may at first seem a little overwhelming, but the overall descriptions of Machu Picchu in relation to the it’s surroundings will absolutely blow you away. Virtually nothing at Machu Picchu was designed and constructed haphazardly. Everything was part of a plan that extended far beyond the central complex itself.

Machu Picchu: A Civil Engineering Marvel by Kenneth Wright and Alfredo Valencia Zegarra.

I waited a long time before buying this book because of it’s high cost and the expense of having it shipped to Peru. Not only was it worth the wait, but I should have bought it months earlier. There is simply no book that goes into the detail of the construction of Machu Picchu like this.

It was the first book on this list which I read through twice. On the second reading I took extensive notes to continue my personal research on Machu Picchu. Along with Reinhard’s book, these two are essential if you really want to get to know Machu Picchu far and above the information — often inaccurate — presented by tour guides.

The Conquest of the Incas by John Hemming

This is considered the scholarly book on the Spanish conquest. If you want to learn just how horrible this period in the 16th century really was, then read Hemming’s book.

Pizarro and his band of conquistadores were not educated noblemen as history often portrays them. They were generally illiterate adventurers who, like the gold miners in the 1800’s US west, were solely intent on getting rich no matter what. Hemming’s book is long, but is the best if you want to get into the details of the period.

The Last Days of the Incas by Kim MacQuarrie

Another book on the Spanish conquest of the Incas. Though not as detailed and scholarly as Hemming’s book, I enjoyed this one much better and recommend it for this who want to get an overview of the period.

To me, it read more as a novel but is still every bit as historically accurate. I have both the Kindle and the audio book versions. I find myself listening to the audio version regularly when traveling as I can review certain chapters that fit my current specific interests.

Forgotten Vilcabamba: Final Stronghold of the Incas by Vincent R. Lee

This book surprised me. I bought the Kindle version to read as preparation for one day being able to explore the final Inca capitol which for centuries was lost in the rainforest north of Cusco. (This was the final Inca citadel that Hiram Bingham thought he’d found when he “discovered” Machu Picchu.)

I enjoyed the book so much that I bought the large paperback version here in Cusco in order to get the many graphics left out of the Kindle version. It cost a lot, but was certainly worth it!

Vilcabamba (more commonly known as Espiritu Pampa here), is not only the last Inca capital, but it is still in much the shape that it has been for the past 450 years. A lost city in the jungle that is still difficult to reach, I hope to visit there this year!

Ancient Cusco: Heartland of the Inca by Brian S. Bauer

It’s surprising how little archaeologically research has actually been done on Cusco and the immediate area. Bauer’s research provides a ton of information about places that tourists can visit, but for which there is very little accurate information available.

As with a few of the other books on this list, it is one that I have read thoroughly and taken extensive notes because there is so much of interested presented. Even the Kindle version is a little expensive, but worth it if you want to learn more than normal about Cusco itself.

Vilcabamba and the Archeology of Inca Resistance by Brian S. Bauer, Javier Fonseca Santa Cruz, and Miriam Aráoz Silva

This book is my most recent acquisition and is also the most recently published (2016) of all of these.

Anyone who follows me knows that I have a deep fascination with the rainforest region around Machu Picchu. There is so much more there than the world’s most famous mountain citadel and it’s accepted that there is still a lot to be explore and discovered.

As I wrote before, Vilcabamba is a place of intense interest for me and the top place on my “must explore” list. While the ruins where known to a few, it was only in the sixty years ago that its actual identity was confirmed. Only in the last few decades has any real research been conducted here.

The White Rock: An Exploration of the Inca Heartland by Hugo Thompson

Like Mark Adams’ Turn Right at Machu Picchu discussed above, this is a great adventure book about exploring the region. If you have the time and any inclination to really get off the beaten path and channel your inner Indiana Jones, then this book is your inspiration.

A New York Times’ Bestseller, it really does read like a non-stop Indiana Jones adventure. The difference is that this was real life in real places that can still be visited today by those with a little grit and determination.



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That’s my own personal list. There are lots of other great books to inform and inspire. As I said before, these books are based on real science and research and won’t waste your time with a lot of fake stuff made up by people trying to con you out of your money.


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Early Morning Hike Up to K’usilluchayoq

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The forecast is for rain after this morning so I decided to get an early morning hike up to the ruins at K’usilluchayoq (also known as Templo de los Monos/Temple of the Monkeys).

This is a small set of ruins on the way up to the better known Amaru Marcawasi (Templo de la Luna/Temp/e of the Moon) site. It is one of those enigmatic sites consisting of innumerable stone carvings that defy explanation.

To get there, I had to hike about a mile (1.6 km) uphill along the ancient Camino del Inca al Antisuyo which was one of the four major roads leading out of Cusco to the four main regions of the Inca Empire.

It’s a beautiful hike up with some breathtaking views of the city, but the stone path can really be slippery on a day like this. I slipped several times on the way back down though I never actually fell.

Almost there — the stone outcroppings of K’usilluchayoq are at the top of the hill.

When I finally arrived at K’usilluchayoq, I visited the small set of buildings on the left. It’s made up of a few little rooms with a number of niches for ceremonial idols along with a single flat ceremonial platform.

The carved stones are extremely interesting, though I think many of the interpretations are, at best, highly questionable. Like so much of the mythology surround the Incas and Inca sites, a great made up story is far more interesting than the likely truth. For that reason, without any basis other than mythology, I won’t bother presenting any baseless speculation.

No matter what, this is still a fascinating site at which to spend a little time exploring.

Be sure to check out the ritual bath/fountain along the road a few meters just north of the site. Note the two channels at the top that brought water in from a source long since gone.



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This is What I was Doing During January!

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I know I disappeared all last month from posting here, but I did have a reason and it didn’t involve anything bad. I was busy focusing on this entry for a outdoor-themed short film competition. While my entry didn’t win, it was surprisingly very well-received as I was using a new camera (Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4k) and editing software (DaVinci Resolve) which I had not used before.

I’d love to hear any comments you want to share about it — good or bad!

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The Sacred Valley Near Calca and Urqo

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Yesterday I went with a group from Mundo Antiguo Spanish School to the Sacred Valley near the town of Calca to hike along the Rio Urubamba.

I had never been along that part of the Valley though I have hiked north of the town several times. Despite the rainy weather typical this time of year, it turned out to be a lot of fun and we saw quite a few places that were new to me. It was great going out again with our wonderful guide, Dorian, along with my friends Carina (Austria), Laurence (Luxembourg), and Caroline (Seattle/US).

Dorian talked about the amazing carving on the huaca (sacred rock) at Urqo where water-related ceremonies were likely held.

After taking the hour-long colectivo (passenger van) ride to Calca, we walked across a bridge and turned north along the raging river in a light rain. Thanks to very heavy recent rains that had caused flooding in several communities, the river was threatening to overflow it’s banks the entire way.

Along the way, I spotted some rock paintings (“pinturas repestres”) on the wall along the wall as well as several Inca cemeteries. Unfortunately, rain didn’t allow me to pull out my camera and get any photos. That’ll have to wait for another time.

Eventually we made our way to the ruins of Urqo. I had seen the extensive agricultural terraces there which lie next to the main road running through the Valley, but I had no idea there was actually more lying behind the hills.

There wasn’t much to the ruins, but what was there was certainly worth the hike. Besides the amazing huaca (see the above photo), there was a circular building that likely was also built for ceremonies. (Round buildings are almost unknown in Inca construction as they are almost always rectangular. )

The complex was quite small with a number of smaller buildings next the huaca. These were likely rooms for Inca priests and attendants as well as storerooms.

The colors of the valley, while somewhat subdued on this rainy day, were still sparkling with the color of flowers and a million shade of green. Most visitors to Cusco and the Sacred Valley have no idea what everything looks like in the summer!

Like any walk through the valley at just about any time of the year, there are fantastic photo opportunities. Thank goodness the last half of the hike was mostly dry!

Thanks to Dorian for being such a great guide!


(Please feel free to leave a comment below. I love to hear what people think! If you like this, you can share this page with the links below or even subscribe so that you’ll be notified when I post again. (I don’t sell anything here, so you don’t have to worry about that.

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My Top 10 Hikes in the Cusco Area for 2019

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This is my first full year living in Cusco. In that time I’ve explored many incredible places in this area, yet I haven’t even begun to touch all that is here. Here is a list of my favorite hikes taken this year.

Be sure to click on the links to get detailed descriptions of the hikes including tons of photos and some videos.

# 10 – An Inca Road from Chinchero to Urquillos

I only recently took this trail popular among visitors to Cusco. It’s a fairly easy hike descending from the ruins at Chinchero through the canyon passing through some beautiful countryside and providing spectacular views of the valley below and the mountains on the other side. (Be sure to check out the trail to the waterfall.)

You can read about my hike down the canyon here: Hiking an Inca Road from Chinchero to the Sacred Valley.

Last week I also a short video of the first part of the hike with my new camera that will give you an idea of how beautiful it is: Hiking Down an Inca Road.

# 9 – El Camino al Antisuyo to Yucaypata

This was the first real hike I took out of Cusco along the main Inca road out of Cusco heading to the Antisuyo region to the north. Almost every tourist walks along part of this road as it begins in the Plaza de Armas next to the main Cathedral, but none realize the significance or have any idea where it leads.

Much of the road has been reconstructed as it climbs up into the mountains above the city past the Templo de los Monos and Templo de la Luna. Those two spots get a fair share of visitors, but almost no one continues on up the road towards the village of Yucaypata where it disappears soon after when it meets up with the Pisac Highway.

Don’t expect to see any people once you pass the Templo de la Luna, but do expect to see some beautiful scenery. Keep an eye for the ruins of Inkilltambo on the right as you head away from Cusco.

You can see a short hyperlapse video of the first part of the road leading out from the Plaza de Armas here: Inca Trail in Cusco? Of Course!

# 8 – Ccorca

My friends Jhedi and Fania have been telling me about this beautiful place for over a year and recently I finally took a trip to explore the magnificent canyon west of Cusco.

It was certainly as unique a place as any I’ve experienced. The solitude in the canyon as I passed beside the (at the time) dry river bed with only the sound of birds and the wind to keep me company.

It’s the only place I know where ancient tombs still exist containing the bones of people who once occupied the region.

I wrote about my September trip to Ccorca here: Find Yourself Alone in Ccorca’s Tecsecocha Canyon.

# 7 – Yucay to San Juan Bautista

If you want to see how people of the Sacred Valley still utilize the agricultural structures that were built over 500 years ago by the Incas, then Yucay is the place to go. The extensive complex is probably the largest surviving set of andenes (agricultural terraces) that are still in use today.

There are a number of trails passing up from the small town towards the canyon leading to the tiny community of San Juan Bautista high in the mountains below the majestic peak of Chicon. It’s impossible to get lost and the rewards are indescribable.

Catch a glimpse of people farming very much like they did long ago. Depending on the season, keep an eye out for farmers using oxen to pull enormous wooden plows. Flowers bloom in the spring and the colors are spectacular in the summer months, though watch out for storm clouds appearing rapidly over the mountains. (Trust me, I’ve been caught in the rain here before!)

As you go up the canyon, you’ll follow along side the stream and discover the ruins of the old hydroelectric plant, a roaring waterfall, and you might even spot the ancient Inca cemetery high on the cliff above the valley.

Check out the my pics and the story of this lovely area here: Yucay — Exploring Ancient Trails in a World Standing Still.

# 6 – Above Tambomachay

For simply breathtaking vistas, this is probably my favorite hike. I’ve done it several times and each time I discover something new. It was the first place I ever hiked where my jaw literally dropped when I saw the canyon view for the first time.

This is another of those “don’t expect to see another person except the occasional shepherd” hikes, though you are likely to see plenty of sheep and llamas.

I wrote this the first time I explored up the canyon: Hiking Above Tambomachay.

A couple of weeks ago while climbing farther than I have ever gone before, I stumbled across what appeared to be a significant ruin site. You can read about it and see the video I did on these two blog posts:

Exploring More (almost) Unknown Ancient Ruins
Exploring More (almost) Unknown Ancient Ruins – Video

Last fall I put together this little video on some of the ruins just a short distance from Tambomachay: Ruins Above Tambomachay.

# 5 – The Inca Road from Pachar to Ollantaytambo

Thousands of tourists every year pay hundreds of dollars each to hike along what’s commonly known as “the Inca Trail”. Despite being only a tiny part of the actual Inca road system, it’s considered one of the world’s greatest treks.

Needless to say, if you want to say you walked along that very same road, it’s possible to do so absolutely free. Along the way you may get to interact with local farmers and you’ll avoid the crowds along the way. Indeed, the only people you may see are farm family and an occasional campesino leading a string of horses along the trail.

Along the way as you approach Ollantaytambo, you’ll come upon the ruins of Choqana. I can’t really explain why, but this is one of my favorite places. I wrote about it here: Choqana — Ancient Fort or Inca Tambo?

You can read more about this hike here: Hiking THE Inca Trail for Free in the Sacred Valley.

# 4 – Kinsa Cocha to Pisac

If you want to see breathtaking high altiplano scenery with not a soul around, then the Kinsa Cocha area about 25 km. above Pisac is the place to go. I’ve never seen another person there except a couple of shepherds watching over sheep and llamas grazing in the remote mountains.

A taxi can take you from Pisac and they will gladly wait for you, but I strongly recommend walking back down to Pisac. While it’s a very long hike, it is downhill and the opportunity to walk along Inca roads and interact with the many villagers you’ll pass is worth every moment.

This area gets few visitors so people tend to friendlier and less jaded about tourists invading their pueblos.

You can read about my last trip and the hike down at Hiking Back in Time at Kinsa Cocha

# 3 – Palccoyo – the “Alternative” Rainbow Mountain

If high altitude hiking among the remote Andes Mountains with breathtaking scenery in every direction sounds intriguing, then the place to go is Palccoyo, also known as the “alternative” Rainbow Mountain.

Hiking at well over 5000m/16,400′ above sea level can be pretty daunting for most, but Palccoyo is a great spot to visit because you are dropped off near the top and there is relatively little climbing involved. As long as you aren’t bothered by high altitude and go at a reasonable pace, this is an easy hike.

Make sure you take a camera as this is one of the most photogenic places in all of South America.

(I’ve been there three times and heartily recommend my friend Roger Mamani and Rainbow Mountain Expeditions if you want to go. Roger is from the area, speaks excellent English, and specializes in trips to Palccoyo.)

Please check out all my photos and a description of this fantastic place at Palccoyo – The Alternative Rainbow Mountain.

# 2 – Aguas Calientes to the River Intihuatana

Easily one of the most important sites in the Machu Picchu region, the river Intihuatana remains the least visited as it is hidden in the jungle. It’s a very small site only a few meters from the route taken by thousands of visitors to Machu Picchu who hike to Aguas Calientes from the hidroelectrica along the Rio Urubamba, yet it is virtually unknown.

This was my first experience in searching for ruins hidden in the jungle. While most of the local people are familiar with it, I found that some parts were unknown even to long time residents. Indeed, I was able to discover some nearby Inca walls that were apparently undiscovered by previous archaeological explorations.

The beautiful hike along the Rio Urubamba from Aguas Calientes is worthy of a day by itself. I’ve seen all kinds of rainforest animals including agoutis, oropendulas, and even a river otter. Be aware that stepping off the trail into the jungle can be risky as extremely poinsonous and agressive bushmaster snakes (known locally as “shushupe”) are known to inhabit the area.

You can read about this incredible hike at Searching for the River Intihuatana.

I also did this video a few weeks later (including some ruins that I was unable to find on my earlier explorations) that will give you an idea of what a special place this is: Searching for the River Intihuatana near Machu Picchu.

# 1 – Waqrapukara

While there are some world-class places to visit in the Cusco area, I think my favorite are the incredible ruins of Waqrapukara perched high above the remote Apurimac canyon.

The challenging hike to the ruins along provides scenery that rivals almost anything I’ve ever seen, but the nothing tops the fortress of Waqrapukara itself.

It’s hard to put into words just how spectacular this hike really is, but hopefully you can get a idea by checking out my pics and description of this magnificent place here: Waqrapukara – Peru’s Most Breathtaking Ruins?



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Exploring More (Almost) Unknown Ancient Ruins – Video

Posted on by Posted in Cusco, Ruins, Unique Places 1 Comment

A few days ago I wrote about the spectacular hike I took into the Andes mountains above Cusco where I explored some apparently little known (and even less visited) ruins that seemed to be quite significant. (You can read about the trip and check out the photos here: Exploring More (Almost) Unknown Ancient Ruins).

The scenery along the way is some of my favorite in the Cusco region, but the highlight was stumbling up the ruins which appear to be only old animal enclosures from a distance.


This was done with my GoPro Hero 7 which I never use, but carrying only a tiny camera should made hiking at 14,000′ above sea level a lot easier! I really would love to hear what you think about the video. Editing is a pain the #$% which is why I prefer photos, but video can show everything from a completely different perspective.


Please feel free to leave a comment below. I love to hear what people think! If you like this, you can share this page with the links below or even subscribe so that you’ll be notified when I post again. (I don’t sell anything here, so you don’t have to worry about that.)

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Exploring More (Almost) Unknown Ancient Ruins

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One of the highlights of exploring in the Cusco region is finding ancient ruins that are virtually unknown and rarely, if ever, visited, except by local people. A couple of days ago I was fortunate to get my “Indiana Jones” fix when I stumbled upon just such a site.

My favorite hike the immediate Cusco area is along the route from the popular ruins of Tambomachay up into the mountains above Cusco leading to the lesser known ruins of Huchuy Qosqo. Wednesday morning I woke up with the urge to do a long hike high in the Andes in this very spectacular area and see what was on “the other side of the mountain.”

What I found was far more than what I expected.

[Remember to click on the individual photos to see larger views.]

This unnamed lake is nearly dry as the rainy season finally approaches. The mountains in the distance had served as a barricade to what lay ahead on previous hikes.

Best Hike around Cusco?

I’d been to the high Andean lake about 7 km up the trail before, but didn’t know what was on the other side of the high ridge that surrounds the lake on three sides.

The climb up itself isn’t all that difficult. Most of the climbing is done in the first 2-3 km, but the beautiful scenery makes it easy to forget just how hard you’re breathing!

The scenery as you hike high above a very impressive canyon is literally jaw dropping at times with expansive views that will take your breath away.


Once I made it to the nearly dry lake I was greeted by the pair of huge Andean geese who live up there year round before heading up the trail to the pass on the left side. At that point I decided to scramble to the highest point at the end of the basin where the views were spectacular.

The view from the top of the mountain above Lago Piuray and the Chinchero communities is beautiful — especially when the snow capped mountains on the other side of the Sacred Valley are visible.


Once having reached 14,340′ (4370m) at the top, I realized I was just above the small communities of Umasbamba and Tauca near Lago Piuray and Chinchero. Looking back down into the basin I noticed what appeared to be a collection of stone enclosures that had fallen into disrepair. These are commonly used in the Andes by local people to corral herds of llamas and sheep when necessary.

A Unique Site Hidden in Plain Sight

In making my way down to get some photos of the ruins, I began to notice that these were different from what I was expecting.

While there was a large number of stones scattered across the area, they appeared to be quite a bit larger than those normally used by local people. Also, almost everything had been knocked down except for a handful of very interesting structures that possibly had been rebuilt for more recent use.

What could this circular structure have been used for?


The first structure I came upon was a small circular tower about 1.5 m across that possibly looked like a granary or storehouse of some kind.

A little farther to the south I discovered a couple of walls still in good shape and immediately noticed that one wall was built on top of a larger rock that appeared to have a channel carved lengthwise across the top.

The stone wall to the left was deliberately placed on top of the larger stone on the ground. I appeared to have a channel cut into the flattened top surface, but perhaps centuries of erosion had made it difficult to be certain.
Directly behind the carved stone on the lower level of the wall was another unexplained circular structure..

Behind the carved stone — a ceremonial rock? — was another 180-degree circular structure open to the lower section. A few feet the the left was an opening in the wall that appeared to be for a water channel. I wonder if at one time there was a spring nearby providing water for this site.

  • Another circular structure cut into land and apparently opened at one end.
  • This small structure appeared to be part of a tunnel or channel in which the top had collapsed.
  • Does this look like whats left of a doorway to you? When I saw this it was clearly part of a doorway complete with steps down into the lower section.
  • This smooth sided carved stone was obviously placed here in this position for a reason.
  • I found this extremely interesting. On one end of what appeared to be a single structure, there were two smaller enclosures about 3 x 3 m in size. Notice that the far “room” has had the dirt turned up? This had obviously been done in recent months since the last rainy season. Why would a local person/people do this to one small part of the site?


The site contained several other mysterious structures (shown above) that left me with a lot of unanswered questions.

Circular structures were rarely used by the Incas and only in important sites. However, there were some pre-Inca communities in the area that used round structures.

Also, the walls were not of the quality of even rudimentary Inca sites which made me wonder if the site was actually originally used by one of the many pre-Incan cultures than existed before the Incas dominated the region.

The small, yellowish, water polished stone at the bottom of this photo was clearly out-of-place so high in the mountains far from any river. Someone had deliberately carried it up and placed it at this site.


Probably the most interesting thing I saw here was the presence of a small, egg-shaped stone that had obviously been brought up by someone from a river somewhere else. It had been there a very long time as it had settled into the ground.

The Incas along with other cultures in the region had a great respect for the relationships between the sun, water, and the land as all were necessary for their survival.

There are a number of examples of Incas incorporating water related items into their construction. (For example, the Main Temple at Machu Picchu and the Plaza de Armas in Cusco incorporated sand brought from the Atlantic Ocean.)

Also, the famous Ceremonial Rock next to the Watchman’s Hut overlooking Machu Picchu has a large number of river stones placed all around it. Some archaeologists have suggested that these were brought up as “water” offerings by those who were not allowed to enter the citadel itself.

The shape of the stone itself might likely be significant, too. Perhaps the most important Inca relic that is still revered by many in Cusco today is the egg-shaped Wiracocha Stone in the main Cathedral. You can read more about this incredibly important stone in this blog post: The Mystery of the Wiracocha Stone.

What is This Place?

To be honest, I have no idea. It obviously is not a llama enclosure! There are too many structures that do not appear to be Inca so I have a feeling it is a pre-Incan site of some importance.

I have never come across anything written about this place before and a couple of days of research hasn’t resulted in anything at all that might help shed a little light on who built it, what was its purpose, and why there seems to be some present-day acknowledgement of the site.

It is places like this that fill me with such fascination yet provide so much frustration because I know so little about them. I find myself doing the same thing as researchers since Hiram Bingham — studying as much as I can and making the best inferences possible based on the research of others.

What do you think?


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